Technique Tuesday: Sewing and Serging Pintucks

Today we are going to talk tucks...mostly pintucks.  I love pintucks, they are a simple sewing technique that can add an extra special detail to a project. Pintucks can be created with either a sewing machine or a serger, but I must admit, in this case I prefer my sewing machine.

First off, a pintuck is basically a straight stitch sewn on the fold of a fabric, creating a narrow lip. I've used pintucks and tucks on a number of different projects.  Here are a few examples: Sunburst Pintuck Top, Crayon Box Pleat Skirt (waistband),  Itty Bitty Remix, and my pintucked top.

Sewing a Pintuck

Light to medium weight fabrics are traditionally used with a pintuck technique. For practice, it is helpful if the fabric has a linear print on it.  For example, this cotton print has lines running vertically, horizontally, and on the bias.  If you want to practice making pintucks, it may help to use a similar fabric.  

Of course, you can use a solid, and use a removable marking pen/pencil as a guide, it just involves more measuring and marking.

Start by folding your fabric along the desired line or guide.  Pressing can make the process easier.

Place your material under the presser foot, and align the material with your 1/8" presser foot marking.  The larger the seam allowance, the bigger the tuck, the smaller the seam allowance, the smaller the tuck.  For a pintuck, I don't go any larger than 1/8", and often stick to about 1/10".

Sew a straight line along the length of the material. 

Sew as many tucks as are desired.

Press the tucks in the same direction.

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Here's a look at some tucks created with varied widths.

From left to right: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1"

Serging a Pintuck

A serged pintuck is nothing more than a narrow rolled hem sewn on the fold of the fabric.  The thread is much more visible than when a tuck is created with a sewing machine.

The technique is the same, but the serger requires specific settings.

My brother 1034d uses the multi-purpose guide foot for creating pintucks.  The foot features a plastic guide that can be adjusted left to right to accommodate different widths of tucks.  The guide is really helpful in maintaining a straight stitching line.

The pintuck is created using a three thread set up. The owner's manual provides these settings:

Right Needle: 4.0

Upper Looper: 4.0

Lower Looper 7.5

Differential: 0.7

Knife: Disabled

Removable Stitch Finger: Off

Stitch length 1.0-2.5 (I prefer 2.5)

Foot: Multi-purpose guide foot (aka: blind hem foot).

Here's a look at what the knobs and dials look like all set up.

 Adjust the guide foot so that the guide sits just to the right of the right needle. Place fabric under the presser foot, with the folded fabric flush with the guide.

Stitch down the length of the material.

 That's it.  The serger requires more set up, but once you've worked out any necessary adjustments to tension, it is really quite simple to do.  As I mentioned earlier, I still prefer the look of a standard sewing machine pintuck, but the serger is quite, easy, and works well.  Using a coordinating thread will help the stitching lines be less visible.

Now, aside from these basic techniques, there are a few helpful tools to making pintucks even easier.  Pintuck presser feet are available, and paired with a twin needle, pintucking becomes a cinch.

 Enjoy this informative video by Liz of JanomeLife

       

Tutorial: Serging a Narrow Chain

An overcast serger is great for finishing off raw edges, but the interlocking threads can be used a number of different ways. I just finished up a couple of skirts for my nieces, and needed some simple belt loops to keep the sashes in place. A tight and narrow serged chain made a perfect little belt loop that could be sewn right into the seam allowance (without pulling free).

Removable Stitch Finger removed.

Very little explanation is needed to create a tight chain, but I'll walk you through my serger's (brother 1034d) settings. 

 Differential: .7-0

Knife: 3-5

Stitch Length: R

Three thread, with needle in the right position.

Tension Settings

Right Needle: 4.0

Upper Looper: 5.0

Lower Looper:7.0

Once your needle and loopers are threaded, with tension adjusted, creating the chains is as simple as controlling the pedal.  As the loopers do their job, a tight chain is formed.  Guide the threads straight behind the presser foot, without pulling them through. Steady pressure on the foot pedal will create a uniform chain.  Make your chain as long as necessary, and trim as needed for individual loops.

Chains can then be inserted into seam allowances to create belt loops.  Sewing machine stitches can catch between the interlocked chain, and secure the loops.  I recommend backstitching to ensure that the machine stitches catch the chain.

Quite simple, and really handy.

Technique Tuesday: How to Sew and Serge a Blind Hem

I've been working on a little project to share with you, and it involves sewing a blind hem.  Now EVERY time I sew a blind hem, I pull out my machine manual, and try to interpret their horrible diagrams.  A blind hem is really quite simple, but for some reason prepping my materials is always a little bit of a mystery to me.  

Well, I did some research, and worked out a few kinks that I frequently run into, and I think that I finally understand how it works. 

Shirr Thing For Spring: Day Five-Shirred Project Round Up

There are so many different ways to use sewing in your projects.  I really didn't branch out much to explore the different applications, but sometimes it's nice to stay in your comfort zone.  

If you are still looking for the perfect shirred project for spring/summer, here are a few fantastic options.

Image Source: Sew Retro Chic

I love this Shirred Mod Top from Sew Retro Chic, it comes complete with a photo tutorial so that you can make one of your own.

Image Source: Morning by Morning Productions

If you're looking for a lightweight skirt for the summer, this Smocked Maxi Skirt from Morning by Morning Productions could be just what you need. The Shirred Waist is sure to make it very comfortable. Tutorial provided.

Image Source: Made

 If your looking for an easy swimsuit coverup for summer, Dana of Made provides a tutorial for this Shirred Beach Towel Dress.

Image Source: Sutton Grace

I love the shirred waist detail on this Polka Dot Mini Boden Knock Off, by Erin of Sutton Grace.  You can find her blog here, and the original post and tutorial here. (Craftiness Is Not Optional, is currently having some technical difficulties, and I had trouble viewing the original post, but check back for the tutorial).

Shirr Thing For Spring: Mini Series Day 1 : Shirring Basics and The Sun Dress

Do you ever learn a new sewing technique, and then wonder what in the world you can do with it?  I do, and I thought that it might be fun to do a mini series of sorts, applying one sewing technique to five different projects.  Shirring is a technique that I first attempted at the end of last summer.  It is a simple technique that can be applied in a number of different ways to create a number of simple projects. It involves sewing with elastic thread in your bobbin, and standard machine thread in your needle.  The elastic thread in the bobbin pulls the fabric creating a nice gathered, or smocked, look.  The more rows of shirring that you sew, the more gathered it becomes.

If you haven't ever heard of shirring, or have been afraid to attempt it you may want to reference the following links and videos.  If you have a basic understanding of it, and are interested in creating a simple sundress like the one featured, you can read my basic instructions for the dress below.

Shirring Basics 

Now there are several shirring tutorials available online, and that is how I first learned to shirr.  Rather than repeating all of the same information, I thought I'd refer you to  my favorite shirring resources for instruction.


Kathlene from Grosgrain, has several video tutorials that are extremely helpful.  She offers helpful tips on getting the elastic bobbin thread to scrunch up, and on adjusting the tension on a Brother sewing machine.   You can find her basic shirring video tutorial here, and her Brother machine shirring video  here. 


Disney, of Ruffles and Stuff, also provides a great photo tutorial on how to shirr.  You can find her technique tutorial here.

The Ruffle Strapped Sundress

When I was a little girl I had a little yellow sundress that I would have loved to wear year round.  It was shirred at the top, and always fit my thin frame perfectly.  Shirring is a great way to create a basic dress that can fit a number of different body types.  I recently made this shirred dress for my 5 year old niece.  She is extremely petite, and I knew that making a shirred dress was probably my best bet on getting a good fit, without access to her measurements.

To create the dress you will need to know two basic measurements, the width around the child's chest (though this doesn't have to be exact....thank you shirring), and the desired length of the dress.

I couldn't just take my nieces measurements, so I measured Clark, who is three years younger than her, but he happens to outweigh her by about three pounds. I figured that the discrepancy in size couldn't be too great.  Once I had a rough idea of the circumference of the chest, and an idea of the length of the dress (this should be determined by measuring just below the arm pit to the desired length, whether it be to the floor, mid calf, or to the knee).  

The basic dress is created by cutting out two rectangles that are sewn together at the side seams, with a narrow rolled hem at the top, and a  narrow hem at the bottom.  Knowing this, you can determine the exact size that your rectangles need to be.  Each piece (front and back) should be the width of the chest measurement (plus seam allowance times two), and the length of your dress measurement (plus about 1-1/2" for narrowed rolled hem, and hem).

You will cut out your two rectangles.  Sew them together at the sides and finish off raw edges.  You should have a basic tube that is 2x the circumference of the chest, the shirring will gather in the top for a proper fit.  Once your side seams are sewn, create a narrow rolled hem at the top of the dress by either using a narrow rolled hem presser foot, or by turning the fabric under 1/4" two times, pressing, and stitching down. For the bottom hem I finished off the raw edge, turned it in 1/4", stitched down, and then applied a pom pom trim around the base (the second row of stitching).

Now that your dress is hemmed and trimmed, you will want to begin shirring.  I began shirring about 1/4" from my narrow rolled hem stitching line.  You will want to make sure that you lock in your stitches when you start and stop stitching.  My shirred lines are about 1/2" apart, or the width of my presser foot. I sewed about 13 rows of shirring.  For this style of sundress, you will want to sew enough to reach  the bottom of the sternum.

I wanted to create a strap with a bit of width to it, so I decided to make a little ruffle strap.  To create the straps I cut two long pieces that were four times the desired width, and long enough to reach from the top of the sundress, over the shoulder, and to the back, plus about one inch length for attachment. I pressed the strips of fabric in half, and then folded the raw edges in toward the original pressed crease.  This creates a strap with encased raw edges.

Next create your ruffles.  You are going to want to cut your ruffles four and a half inches wide, and twice as long as your straps.  Fold your ruffle pieces in half and press.  Using a long gathering stitch, gather your ruffles along the raw edges.  Leave threads long, and adjust the ruffles to the length of the straps. I next attached the trim the edge of the ruffles, with the trim facing away from the raw edges of the ruffles.  Sandwich your ruffles between the open edge of your straps.  Pin in place.  Stitch 1/8" away from the edge of the strap, catching in the edge of the ruffle.  Topstitch along the folded edge of the strap. Your straps are now created.

To attach them to the dress I recommend trying it on your model, and positioning them so that the straps sit right in the dip of the shoulder.  Pin the straps to the front of your dress.  Stitch in place.  Try dress on again, and adjust straps so that they fit well, and won't slip off the shoulders. Stitch the straps in place in the back.  Another option is to attach them to the front, and then create a button closure for the back of the dress.  This will give you more flexibility to adjust it for growth, you can add multiple button holes for size adjustment.

Now that your sundress is finished, you can tighten up your shirring by using a steam iron, and steaming (while not pressing, just hovering) above the shirred lines.  The elastic thread will tighten, and so will your fabric.

Next, accessorize.

I know that this mini series has the potential to become a bit monotonous, but I thought that it would be a fun way to develop my shirring technique.  If you get bored, just hang in there, I'll have something new soon.

Knit Baby Squash Hat

Early this season, I mentioned a few of my knitting goals.  One of which was to learn how to knit in the round.  I am by no means a pro, and my stitches leave much to be desired, by I have successfully completed two baby squash hats that are knit in the round.

I used some cream peaches n' cream yarn, and followed the pattern outlined in 101 Designer One Skein Wonders, by Judith Durant.  The pattern calls for circular needles, but my only set of circular needles was too long for this particular project. I ended up learning how to work with double pointed needles....which took a bit of getting used to, but wasn't all that difficult to pick up.

 

One of the biggest difficulties for me was  keeping my tension uniform as I worked around the circle.  I don't think that this yarn is ideal for a beginner project when knitting in the round, it really doesn't camouflage the tension issues at all.

I love this little hat.  It is intended for newborns,  but I'm guessing that it will only fit newborns with small to average size heads.  There's no way that Clark would have fit in it.

Are you interested in learning how to knit in the round, or use double pointed needles?  You can check out the youtube instructional videos below.

Thanks for reading.

Tips Tricks and Techniques: Easing a Pressed Curved Edge

You've seen the baby corduroy pants that I've been making for my new nephews, well I've recently been working on a more feminine version of the pants.  In place of the angular front pockets, I've added some sweet rounded pockets.  These rounded pockets are really quite simple to make, so long as you know one simple trick: easing the curved edge.

These particular pockets are stitched directly to the front of the pant, rather than being built in.  With the angular pockets on the boy version, you can easily press the raw edges 3/8" and then stitch them to the front of the pant.

Have you ever tried to press a curved edge?  Not the easiest thing.  You can make it a whole lot easier by using a simple gathering stitch around the base of the curve.

To do this you will want to use a long stitch, with loose tension.  You will start about 1 inch above the turn of the curve, and stitch 1/8" outside of the press line (this will ensure that your gathering stitch is not visible when the pocket is finished). Continue stitching until you have turned the curve, and are about one inch above your curved edge.  Leave you thread ends long, and don't backstitch to start or end your stitch line.

You will not slightly gather your thread.  You will want to pull on either the top or bobbin thread, just enough that the curve begins to turn in.  We are not actually gathering or ruffling the pocket, but merely pulling the threads enough that the raw edge begins to turn inward.

Once I have my stitch line gathered the desired amount, I tie a simple overhand knot with my threads, and trim them.  The knot will keep the gather in place until the pocket is finished.

Now with your iron you will want to press in your raw edges.  Press the entire length of the pocket, and the curved edge.  Your curve should turn smoothly and be ready for attachment.

Now wasn't that easy.  I love using this technique for rounded pockets, but I'm sure that it has many other applications as well.

Thanks for reading, and happy sewing.

Obviously I'm missing a photo of the finished project.  I thought that I had one, but apparently I'm missing it.  I'll try to add it as soon as I am able to get a decent shot.

Tips, Tricks, and Techniques: The Rolled Hem

As I mentioned yesterday, I have recently spent some time playing with my new Brother overlock machine.  Yesterday I serged a few of my first rolled hems.  A rolled hem is a beautiful thing.  It is such a neat and tidy way to take care of raw edges.  You can easily find the settings for rolled hems in your serger handbook.  It took me a little while to get used to removing needles, and  stitch fingers, but I'm sure that in no time it will be as easy to prepare rolled hem settings as it is to thread a needle on the sewing machine.

I thought that I'd devote todays post to rolled hems and narrow rolled hems.  A rolled hem can be created using a standard sewing machine, but the equipment is a little different, and the end result is a bit more polished.  Both types of sewing machines can create quite impressive results.

A rolled hem is created when the right side of the fabric is rolled back toward the wrong side of the fabric, and stitched in place.  With an overlock machine, the upper and lower looper threads secure the fabric by looping around the rolled edge. The tension on the lower looper thread is greater than that of the upper, causing the fabric to pull toward the wrong side. Often times you will see different variations of rolled hems on shirts, table linens, cloth napkins, bed linens, and sheer fabrics such as skirts and scarves.  There are a number of different applications, but an overlocked rolled hem is particularly useful when finishing off knit and woven fabrics.

Image Source: Modest Maven

One example of a rolled serged hem is on this Sensei Top by Jodell, of Modest Maven.

For tips on serging a rolled hem, read this article from Sew Inspired.

Image Source: Craft Stylish

Modified Pintuck Top

I mentioned after making the sunburst top that I had lots of ideas running through my head of how I could modify a simple pintuck.  This shirt is the realization of some of those thoughts.  The top didn't turn out exactly like I'd hoped (namely the shape of the bib), but I really liked playing with this technique.  

The shirt itself is a basic cap sleeve t-shirt (see tutorial here), I then added a panel of modified pintuck fabric, along with a ruffle border and a few simple buttons.  If I were to do it again I would bring in the bib so that it starts closer to the neckline.  I might also add a faux placket for the buttons. Enough of that though, I was intending on this post being more about the technique and less about the shirt itself. 

To create the puckered pintucks I made 1/8" pintucks about 1 inch apart. 

Then I stitched perpendicular to the pintucks in alternating directions. Alternating directions will tack down the pintuck one way, and press it up the other.  It is a super simple and fun way to modify a basic pintuck.  My rows were about 1/2" apart.  If you look closely (which you shouldn't, but now you will) my rows aren't exactly even.  I was lacking patience and consequently perfection wasn't achieved (but it rarely is).  I think that it would be fun to create the rows of pintucks closer together.  I think that this technique could be really sweet on a little girl's dress.  

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