Technique Tuesday: Sewing and Serging Pintucks

Today we are going to talk tucks...mostly pintucks.  I love pintucks, they are a simple sewing technique that can add an extra special detail to a project. Pintucks can be created with either a sewing machine or a serger, but I must admit, in this case I prefer my sewing machine.

First off, a pintuck is basically a straight stitch sewn on the fold of a fabric, creating a narrow lip. I've used pintucks and tucks on a number of different projects.  Here are a few examples: Sunburst Pintuck Top, Crayon Box Pleat Skirt (waistband),  Itty Bitty Remix, and my pintucked top.

Sewing a Pintuck

Light to medium weight fabrics are traditionally used with a pintuck technique. For practice, it is helpful if the fabric has a linear print on it.  For example, this cotton print has lines running vertically, horizontally, and on the bias.  If you want to practice making pintucks, it may help to use a similar fabric.  

Of course, you can use a solid, and use a removable marking pen/pencil as a guide, it just involves more measuring and marking.

Start by folding your fabric along the desired line or guide.  Pressing can make the process easier.

Place your material under the presser foot, and align the material with your 1/8" presser foot marking.  The larger the seam allowance, the bigger the tuck, the smaller the seam allowance, the smaller the tuck.  For a pintuck, I don't go any larger than 1/8", and often stick to about 1/10".

Sew a straight line along the length of the material. 

Sew as many tucks as are desired.

Press the tucks in the same direction.

.

Here's a look at some tucks created with varied widths.

From left to right: 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1"

Serging a Pintuck

A serged pintuck is nothing more than a narrow rolled hem sewn on the fold of the fabric.  The thread is much more visible than when a tuck is created with a sewing machine.

The technique is the same, but the serger requires specific settings.

My brother 1034d uses the multi-purpose guide foot for creating pintucks.  The foot features a plastic guide that can be adjusted left to right to accommodate different widths of tucks.  The guide is really helpful in maintaining a straight stitching line.

The pintuck is created using a three thread set up. The owner's manual provides these settings:

Right Needle: 4.0

Upper Looper: 4.0

Lower Looper 7.5

Differential: 0.7

Knife: Disabled

Removable Stitch Finger: Off

Stitch length 1.0-2.5 (I prefer 2.5)

Foot: Multi-purpose guide foot (aka: blind hem foot).

Here's a look at what the knobs and dials look like all set up.

 Adjust the guide foot so that the guide sits just to the right of the right needle. Place fabric under the presser foot, with the folded fabric flush with the guide.

Stitch down the length of the material.

 That's it.  The serger requires more set up, but once you've worked out any necessary adjustments to tension, it is really quite simple to do.  As I mentioned earlier, I still prefer the look of a standard sewing machine pintuck, but the serger is quite, easy, and works well.  Using a coordinating thread will help the stitching lines be less visible.

Now, aside from these basic techniques, there are a few helpful tools to making pintucks even easier.  Pintuck presser feet are available, and paired with a twin needle, pintucking becomes a cinch.

 Enjoy this informative video by Liz of JanomeLife

       

Technique Tuesday: Zig Zag Stitching

When I purchased my first sewing machine, I was so confused by all of the stitches that came standard on my sewing machine.  They were a major selling point for me, but once I opened the box, I had no idea what I'd ever use many of them for.  Three years later, and I've discovered many useful applications for many of the stitches.  Today we're just going to talk about a few of them...mainly the zig zag stitches.

There are three main zig zag stitches that are found on most sewing machines: The standard zig zag, a narrow zig zag stitch, and a two or three point zig zag stitch.  So they sound similar, and they look similar, so why would one need three different stitches?  Well, you probably could get away with a standard zig zag stitch, but having the additional stitches really can come in handy.  

So let's get down to the nitty gritty shall we...

The standard zig zag stitch: can be used to do a variety of things, including but not limited to: overcasting raw edges, attaching appliques, working with stretch fabrics, and creating decorative details.

Three Point Zig Zag Stitch: Overcasting on stretch or medium weight fabrics, darning, attaching elastics (Sheer Thing Skirt). I use it most often when attaching elastics.  The multiple stitches in the zig zag help the seam hold up to greater stress and strain.

Narrow Zig Zag Stitch:Sewing stretch fabrics, and creating decorative details.  Because this stitch is narrow, you can sew seams on stretch fabrics with it.  The angle of the stitches prevents the thread from breaking as the fabric stretches, and the seam is stressed.  I used the narrow zig zag stitch on the side seams of my swimming suit.  I also like to use it when sewing with knit fabrics.

If your sewing machine doesn't offer three point or narrow zig zag stitches, you can generally adjust the stitch to meet your needs.  By adjusting both the stitch length and width, you can create a large variety of stitches to meet your sewing needs.

Decorative Application

By shortening the stitch down to next to nothing, you can create a satin stitch.  Satin stitches are often used as decorative details (especially when done using specialty threads).  The stitches fall right next to one another, creating a satin like appearance.

Practical Overcasting Application

Before I had a serger I had a sewing machine, and my good ol' zig zag stitch was my best friend as I finished off the raw edges of my fabrics.  To do so, you just want to make sure that the needle drops just off the side of your fabric when it is in the right position.  In this case, my zig zag stitch is at it's preset settings.

Overcasting raw edges prevents fraying and gives the garment or project a more polished finish.

Appliques

Appliques can be attached to projects by using an overcast zig zag stitch.  The stitch length and width can be adjusted to fit the size and shape of the applique.  In this case I narrowed the stitch, but didn't shorten the stitch length much.  If your fabric frays easily, you may want to shorten it to create more of a satin stitch.

 Hope that helps understand a few practical applications of the zig zag stitches.  What do you use your zig zag stitches for?  Any particular projects, techniques, or materials that you like to use them for?

Technique Tuesday: How To Sew A Straight Line

Sewing straight lines is pretty basic when it comes to sewing.  I don't know that it can really be considered a technique, but more of a necessary skill.  Unfortunately, sewing a straight line isn't always as easy as it sounds.  So, I thought that I'd share a few tips and tools to help keep those lines and seams straight.

Basic presser foot, quilting guide, rubber band (in case you didn't know).

 Your sewing machine has a lot of built in tools that are ready to help you obtain those straight and even stitching lines.  If you understand what those tools are, and how they work, they are quite helpful.

Technique Tuesday: How to Sew and Serge a Blind Hem

I've been working on a little project to share with you, and it involves sewing a blind hem.  Now EVERY time I sew a blind hem, I pull out my machine manual, and try to interpret their horrible diagrams.  A blind hem is really quite simple, but for some reason prepping my materials is always a little bit of a mystery to me.  

Well, I did some research, and worked out a few kinks that I frequently run into, and I think that I finally understand how it works.