Flatlock stitching is a technique that I've wanted to figure out on my serger for awhile now. A flatlock seam can be decorative when serged on the fold of a fabric, or used to join two fabrics together, while creating a finished flat seam.
The set up of the machine is pretty simple. It is a three thread stitch, with the needle in either the left or right position. The multi-purpose guide foot is used, and can be extremely helpful when stitching along a folded fabric.
Tension Settings: (Brother 1034 D)
Left Needle: 1.0 (wide stitch)
Right Needle: 1.0 (narrow stitch)
Upper Looper: 4.5
Lower Looper: 7.0-8.0
Differential: 0 (far left)
Stitch Length: 3.0-4.0
Multi-purpose guide foot attached. The white plastic piece on the right of the foot is the guide. The metal wheel on the left adjusts the position of the guide.
If you are flatlock stitching on the fold of a garment, you will press the fold. Then align the fold of the fabric with the guide foot.
I found that my stitches were the best if the guide sat in the middle of the stitching.
Because the stitching is unbalanced, when the fabric is pulled open, the stitching pulls flat on the surface of the fabric.
Initially, I had my guide foot wider, and my fabric always bunched up between the stitching when pulled open, when I moved the guide closer to the left needle, the fabric laid nicer.
The wrong side of the flatlock stitch is decorative in and of itself. It creates ladder pattern, very similar to the blind hem stitch. Either side of the stitching can be shown on the garment.
Flatlock stitching can be done to join two pieces of fabric.
Serge just as you would if the material were on the fold. When the seam is pulled open, the top piece of material will fold over toward the edge of the flatlocked stitch.
I've yet to try the technique out on an actual project, but can't wait to do so.
Have you used this technique on any projects? If so, what were they?
I've seen the stitching on swimsuits, raglan t-shirts, and kids clothing. I love the look of it.
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