Tutorial With Pattern: Chevron Pintucked Sundress

I've been in a bit of a creative funk lately.  I just haven't had the energy or much of a desire to sew, partly due to a project that was more trouble than it ever should have been.

When I get in a rut like that, the best thing to do is make something that isn't on my to-do list at all.  Something that doesn't have a deadline, and is just for me.  Since I don't have any girls of my own, dresses are especially fun to make, and this little pin-tucked sundress has recharged my lil' sewing battery.

If you missed my pintuck tutorial earlier this week, and you're not familiar with the technique, you'll want to check it out before getting started.

Materials:

1 package Double Fold Bias Tape-any width will work

3/4 yard main fabric

10 inches of secondary fabric (for underskirt) 

Chevron Sundress Printable Pattern

The Partly Cloudy Infant Sun Dress

So you're probably assuming that I'm pregnant with a baby girl, seeing that all of the sewing projects I've done lately have been baby girl related. The truth is that we still don't know.  Hopefully by early next week we'll have some news.  I had this idea for a little dress recently, but I only had enough fabric for an infant sized dress, so that's what I made.  I guess that by next week I'll know if I'm going to be keeping it for our baby bump, or giving it to one of the many baby girls that has been born recently.

The dress is simple in design, and has three pintucks on the bodice, and two at the bottom of the dress.  I used two different widths of ric-rac to have add a little peek-a-boo of color.

The raw edges of the dress are finished off with a coordinating bias tape, which also serves as the shoulder ties.

I did my best to match up the pintucks and ric-rac on the side seams.  I was pretty pleased that they matched up as well as they did.

I left the back of the dress bare, with exception on the two pintucks and row of ric-rac at the bottom edge of the dress.

I still haven't tried the dress on an actual baby.  I'm guessing that it will probably fit a 9-12 pound baby, but I'm not positive on that.  Once I figure out the exact sizing I'll consider doing a tutorial with pattern for the dress.

On a related note, I'm hoping to have a tutorial and pattern available for the piped baby skirt later this week.  I have the photos taken, I just need to scan in and prepare the pattern.

Thanks for reading, and happy sewing!

Shirr Thing For Spring: Day Four-Shirred Top with Elastic Casing

I picked up this piece lovely white fabric in the remnant section of Joann's about a year ago.  I've had it sitting in my stash waiting to be turned into something lovely.  When I decided to start this shirring series, I knew that it would be perfect for a lightweight tank dress for this summer.  

One thing that I love about these little shirred tops/sundresses is that anyone can wear them, thin girls, medium girls, and fuller girls as well. When I was pregnant with Clark one of my favorite tops was a shirred black and white tank.  I felt like it was very flattering on a pregnant belly. It didn't scream "maternity top", so I felt quite comfortable wearing it during the post part-um period as well. 

 As my thighs and backside have already started expanding, I chose to make this top in an extra long version (more like a short dress).  I have a pair of leggings that are feeling very comfortable about now, and I wanted the top to cover my rear when paired with the leggings.

The material of this top is rather sheer, and it will definitely be worn over a cap sleeve top, and worn with leggings.  This same technique could be made a bit longer to be converted into a sundress (much like day 1).

I chose to make some long ties that could be tied in bows at the top of the shoulders.  I wanted the straps to be adjustable, because it seems that straps are always slipping off of my shoulders.

This top/dress is constructed in much the same way as the sundress from day one (proportions and all).  One small change that I made was in creating a casing at the top of the rows of shirring, for a piece of elastic.  Creating a casing, eliminates the ruffle that happens between the top hem, and the first row of shirring (see image below).    To create the casing I finished off the raw edge at the top of the tube, pressed it under 1/2", and stitched around the casing, 1/8" from the finished edge.  You will want to leave an opening about 1 1/2" long, it will be used to thread your elastic through the casing.  You will want to create the casing before shirring your rows for the bodice.

Now Shirr your little heart out.  My rows are about 1/2" apart.  I ended up shirring 15 rows, but the exact  number that you need will be determined by the size of your bust.  The larger the bust, the more rows you'll need.  I like the shirring to extend a few rows beneath my bust.

Once you have completed your shirring you can begin threading a piece of 1/4" elastic through your casing.  I left my elastic long, tried on the top, and then adjusted the elastic so that the casing was equally gathered as the worn shirred portions of the top.  You want to make sure that your elastic isn't pulled so tight that it is uncomfortable to wear.  Once you have determined the exact length of elastic, overlap it by about an inch.  Pin it in place, and stitch it together using a zig zag stitch.

Next you will want to pin the open section of the casing in place, and stitch it down, taking care not to catch the elastic in your stitching line.

Next attach any straps that you want to make.  I haven't included a tutorial here, but if you have any questions on making straps let me know.  These were created in much the same fashion as the straps used on the ruffled sundress from day one (minus the ruffle).

 Hem the bottom of your top/dress.  I used my serger to create a blind hem, but you could use a standard sewing machine for this step as well.

Shirr Thing For Spring: Mini Series Day 1 : Shirring Basics and The Sun Dress

Do you ever learn a new sewing technique, and then wonder what in the world you can do with it?  I do, and I thought that it might be fun to do a mini series of sorts, applying one sewing technique to five different projects.  Shirring is a technique that I first attempted at the end of last summer.  It is a simple technique that can be applied in a number of different ways to create a number of simple projects. It involves sewing with elastic thread in your bobbin, and standard machine thread in your needle.  The elastic thread in the bobbin pulls the fabric creating a nice gathered, or smocked, look.  The more rows of shirring that you sew, the more gathered it becomes.

If you haven't ever heard of shirring, or have been afraid to attempt it you may want to reference the following links and videos.  If you have a basic understanding of it, and are interested in creating a simple sundress like the one featured, you can read my basic instructions for the dress below.

Shirring Basics 

Now there are several shirring tutorials available online, and that is how I first learned to shirr.  Rather than repeating all of the same information, I thought I'd refer you to  my favorite shirring resources for instruction.


Kathlene from Grosgrain, has several video tutorials that are extremely helpful.  She offers helpful tips on getting the elastic bobbin thread to scrunch up, and on adjusting the tension on a Brother sewing machine.   You can find her basic shirring video tutorial here, and her Brother machine shirring video  here. 


Disney, of Ruffles and Stuff, also provides a great photo tutorial on how to shirr.  You can find her technique tutorial here.

The Ruffle Strapped Sundress

When I was a little girl I had a little yellow sundress that I would have loved to wear year round.  It was shirred at the top, and always fit my thin frame perfectly.  Shirring is a great way to create a basic dress that can fit a number of different body types.  I recently made this shirred dress for my 5 year old niece.  She is extremely petite, and I knew that making a shirred dress was probably my best bet on getting a good fit, without access to her measurements.

To create the dress you will need to know two basic measurements, the width around the child's chest (though this doesn't have to be exact....thank you shirring), and the desired length of the dress.

I couldn't just take my nieces measurements, so I measured Clark, who is three years younger than her, but he happens to outweigh her by about three pounds. I figured that the discrepancy in size couldn't be too great.  Once I had a rough idea of the circumference of the chest, and an idea of the length of the dress (this should be determined by measuring just below the arm pit to the desired length, whether it be to the floor, mid calf, or to the knee).  

The basic dress is created by cutting out two rectangles that are sewn together at the side seams, with a narrow rolled hem at the top, and a  narrow hem at the bottom.  Knowing this, you can determine the exact size that your rectangles need to be.  Each piece (front and back) should be the width of the chest measurement (plus seam allowance times two), and the length of your dress measurement (plus about 1-1/2" for narrowed rolled hem, and hem).

You will cut out your two rectangles.  Sew them together at the sides and finish off raw edges.  You should have a basic tube that is 2x the circumference of the chest, the shirring will gather in the top for a proper fit.  Once your side seams are sewn, create a narrow rolled hem at the top of the dress by either using a narrow rolled hem presser foot, or by turning the fabric under 1/4" two times, pressing, and stitching down. For the bottom hem I finished off the raw edge, turned it in 1/4", stitched down, and then applied a pom pom trim around the base (the second row of stitching).

Now that your dress is hemmed and trimmed, you will want to begin shirring.  I began shirring about 1/4" from my narrow rolled hem stitching line.  You will want to make sure that you lock in your stitches when you start and stop stitching.  My shirred lines are about 1/2" apart, or the width of my presser foot. I sewed about 13 rows of shirring.  For this style of sundress, you will want to sew enough to reach  the bottom of the sternum.

I wanted to create a strap with a bit of width to it, so I decided to make a little ruffle strap.  To create the straps I cut two long pieces that were four times the desired width, and long enough to reach from the top of the sundress, over the shoulder, and to the back, plus about one inch length for attachment. I pressed the strips of fabric in half, and then folded the raw edges in toward the original pressed crease.  This creates a strap with encased raw edges.

Next create your ruffles.  You are going to want to cut your ruffles four and a half inches wide, and twice as long as your straps.  Fold your ruffle pieces in half and press.  Using a long gathering stitch, gather your ruffles along the raw edges.  Leave threads long, and adjust the ruffles to the length of the straps. I next attached the trim the edge of the ruffles, with the trim facing away from the raw edges of the ruffles.  Sandwich your ruffles between the open edge of your straps.  Pin in place.  Stitch 1/8" away from the edge of the strap, catching in the edge of the ruffle.  Topstitch along the folded edge of the strap. Your straps are now created.

To attach them to the dress I recommend trying it on your model, and positioning them so that the straps sit right in the dip of the shoulder.  Pin the straps to the front of your dress.  Stitch in place.  Try dress on again, and adjust straps so that they fit well, and won't slip off the shoulders. Stitch the straps in place in the back.  Another option is to attach them to the front, and then create a button closure for the back of the dress.  This will give you more flexibility to adjust it for growth, you can add multiple button holes for size adjustment.

Now that your sundress is finished, you can tighten up your shirring by using a steam iron, and steaming (while not pressing, just hovering) above the shirred lines.  The elastic thread will tighten, and so will your fabric.

Next, accessorize.

I know that this mini series has the potential to become a bit monotonous, but I thought that it would be a fun way to develop my shirring technique.  If you get bored, just hang in there, I'll have something new soon.